2015 GRAPE HARVEST – CHÂTEAU PALMER –

BETWEEN THE EARTH AND THE SKY

Somewhere out there, between the earth and the sky, one is in a constant quest to shelter one’s body and soul, to find an expression of the gifts he is endowed by nature and recreate them into earthly and heavenly fruits.

One walks upright: his steps outline the trajectories of his incessant pursuits, his hands, free and flexible, give them shape and a vertical that runs from his head to his heart connects him with the nature “down below” and the one “up there.” This is the conscious human being: the one that thinks, feels, and acts in harmony with the Universe.

I cannot help but bind these thoughts with what – ever since the time of Rudolf Steiner’s first lecture on biodynamic agriculture in 1924 – has become the philosophy of hundreds of conscious people whose work is directly linked to the earth, and to vine growing and wine making, in particular. And also to share the observation that here, in France that has always impressed me with its art of creating some exceptionally pure wines, in terms of both their nature and expression, the tendency of bio- passing into bio-dynamism is picking up speed.

Classically, in its essence, Bordeaux is also especially cautious about such serious undertakings such as the passage into bio-dynamism, and continues to be the stately “wine bastion” I have always liken it to. This is understandable – in a country such as France that not only because of its very strict legislation but mostly because of the fact that here the terroir has been scientifically studied for centuries and the entire wine-making cycle is examined under a microscope the responsibility that goes hand in hand with the challenge is huge. It is inevitable to speak about investments, too, in funds, time and specialists, as well as about the risks that go along with such an undertaking. Because apart from the consumer the responsibility is also towards all those who work in the wine sector, one of the leading industries in the region in terms of employment. And now that we are speaking of responsibility, I would add: the responsibility of a wine producer whose domain is situated in an appellation that ranks lower is no less than the responsibility of a Grand Cru, for example. Because what is more valid for biodynamic estates compared to the traditional ones is precisely the Love for the Earth however much of a cliché it may sound (at this point a wide-spread image might appear in front of your eyes: the image of a happy and well-meaning vintner. He claims he is in love with the land that he cultivates as per his perceptions. In this sense, there is a difference only in substance, in the terroir’s quality.

Thanks to my professional occupation and personal interest that has deepened with the passage of time my fate got me in touch with some producers of biodynamic wines of different Bordeaux appellations. Maybe it was precisely those acquaintances that gave me the impetus for a more in-depth quest. Later, the fate, fortunately always unpredictable, again turned out to be decisive for what I will speak about later.

In early 2015, during my stay in Shenzhen, China, we were invited by an elite local wine club to an event marking the anniversary of its opening. The wine selection served during the formal reception was exceptionally wide. In the end of the evening, however, in a much narrower circle of high connoisseur collectors, by a very generous gesture, which as a matter of fact is typical of the Chinese, the club introduced us to the intimate atmosphere of several “wine works of art.” Whether it was because I already felt some kind of wine nostalgia for Bordeaux, and because of the fact (I confess) that over time it became my “wine home” the spirit of the Margaux’s Château Palmer 2005, GCC wine that we tasted that night imbued my entire self. What I knew about the domain was that it is one of the few GCC representatives that create bio wines for quite some time. A couple of months later, now in Bordeaux, I came across the most recent list of the top-class wines and Palmer was listed under the group of biodynamic wines.

I am writing these lines in a very exciting moment: when one turns to the earth to reap the outcome of one’s labor. There is certain symbolism in this act, especially in the case of grape harvests: before gathering the harvest one first bends down to the earth (and to the vine) as in giving a bow – as a sign of gratitude to its generosity. Nature gives itself in full to its metamorphosis: the mornings and the evenings stand out crisply fresh, the warmth, in contrast to the one during the summer season, is somewhat more rounded and soft and it spills to the last onto the ripe fruits, and the earth is ready to pick them out of its womb.

Grape harvest is that moment when one tastes one’s labor!

I let myself freely experience my emotion. It follows the line of nature’s motion from late spring when I came back to Bordeaux to the present: from the blossoming accompanied by the tenderest floral aromas, through the fruit set, the cluster and berry formation to the veraison, to the finale. I think that if there is any compensation for the missed moment in 2014, the only year not lived, it is certainly embodied in 2015. For since the last cult year of 2010, followed by the more traditional 2011 and the harder years of 2012 and 2013, the 2015 Bordeaux vintage gets the outlines of the great years of 2005 and 2010. A calm spring, a hot July when the vines experienced the so useful hydric stress, followed by the moderately hot and slightly rainy August, the warm autumn enabling the full ripening of the fruit, the absence of frostbites: the perfect combination for a truly exceptional yield, for both the white and the red wines. And there is no way of being otherwise: I have not seen the entire Bordelaise wine class so eupohorized and smiling for quite a while!

That wine happiness of mine culminated at the moment when Château Palmer accepted my request to visit the, during the grape harvest.

Oh, Margaux!

The sunny face of Médoc, its ripe, feminine essence: graceful, sensual and deep.

In terms of geography, Margaux, the first appellation along the way of Médoc chateaux, is the one that opens the door to the traveler. Marojallia, as it was called in ancient times, which has the greatest area among all appellations on the left bank of the Garonne and the most homogeneous expression among the wines of different domains, and which is favored by nature by the most intense sun shine, have impressed, among others, the famous poet Ausonius for its special hospitality.

Château Palmer adorns one of Margaux’s most remarkable domains. The chateau itself, a true piece of architectural jewelry, was built by the famous Bordelaise architect Burguet, who is also the author of another, not less famous one: Château Pichon-Longueville Baron. The 19th century was decisive for Palmer’s history which, unfortunately, did not developed quite favorably for the domain and for its owners, the brothers Isaac and Emile Péreire. People of progressive thinking, realizing the true value of Palmer’s terroir, in 1853 they took large-scale action to develop the estate. At that time, the wine born of this land categorically ranked among the Médoc’s first growths (Premiers Crus). However, just two years later, the 1855 Médoc and Sauternes Classification became the reason why Palmer was listed among the Third Growths (Troisièmes Crus).

The new history of the domain is not less impressive. It follows the set course: the course of perfectionism. And if today Palmer’s wine ranks among the first growths during tastings the praise for that goes to the ones who, led by their deep love for the terroir and the knowledge of it, create the following generations of Palmer wine.

The day when I visited the domain was idyllic: an azure blue sky artistically decorated with a couple of white clouds, quite slight wind walking through the vines while they stood strained in orderly lines, as if proud of the fruit they were bearing.

My host is Annabelle Grellier, Palmer’s Communication Director. During my visit she drew me into the deep substance of domain’s life by comprehensively revealing all of its dimensions. Logically, we start walking through the plot stretching right next to the chateau and the string of low-storied buildings erected before it was constructed.

There are “windows” of vegetation that smoothly fit in between them: they are shaped as an English garden, in homage to Palmer’s history from the time when the estate was owned by the Englishman Charles Palmer who also gave it his name. The feeling is one of lightness: here the nature breaths in freedom!

The first taste of the fruit: Merlot which is emblematic for Palmer. In contrast to other Margaux domains where the Cabernet Sauvignon dominates (even in small proportions), here the two varieties are equally represented: 47% each. The remaining part is Petit Verdot which in Palmer’s “recipe” is manifested in the fine notes of spices. The area of planted vines is 55 hectares as the main portion is on a plateau of gravels which mainly characterize the terroir.

Palmer’s passage into a bio domain happened in 2007-2008 when the terroir was re-mapped with exceptional precision. The “Transfiguration” is a parallel move that Director General Thomas Duroux and Technical Director Sabrina Pernet decided to make very well aware that what was to follow could only be a more pure expression of the deep and rounded Merlot, of the powerful and rich Cabernet; so to speak, to express Palmer in its true nature. The studies for a total transformation into bio-dynamism started as early as in 2008 by the first 2 hectares, in 2009 there were already 5 hectares, in 2013 33 of the total of 55 hectares as Palmer absolutely turned into a bio-dynamic domain in 2014. This, in its own unique way, crowns one very important event in the history of the domain: the 200th anniversary of its foundation.

While rushing between the lines I am constantly asking the question about the bio-dynamic practices applied at Palmer and the extent to which they follow Steiner’s theory. And here I come across a living intellect: the actions taken in this field are borrowed from his teachings without, however, being turned into a dogma: one needs a critical eye and observations because it is all about a single-unit terroir. This is Thomas Duroux’s shared vision. And the practices are numerous: from the preparation of herbal tea as per the natural cycles, through letting in, from November to March, a herd of sheep to graze and at the same time fertilize the soil; through its cultivation – the manual grass growing in order to preserve the wealth of its surrounding flora, the breeding of two cows in a neighboring meadow which contributes to the independent compost production. Nothing is invented: the aim is to have the domain rediscover its harmony in which the vines may thrive alongside the entire nature. All actions are associated with a great deal of caution because the stakes are too high!

On September 22nd, grape harvests start by the earlier ripening Merlot. At that time about 150 grape harvesters join the domain’s team of 25. The atmosphere is tense and magical: the laughter gushing across the lines, the hands that take up the clusters and then the cases that carefully shelter Palmer’s Blue. The royal blue of a grape berry with an innate velvet essence!

We pass along the sorting table, along the table for optic selection, we enter the vat room, grandiose in both technical and architectural terms, with 54 temperature-controlled stainless steel vats enabling the harvest separation on a parcel by parcel basis: the grapes for the Château Palmer wine and the ones for its Alter Ego. We climb up on the second level where the work goes on in a literally unearthly rhythm: a symbiosis of human and cutting-edge technology.

The first cellar, the authentic one, with the oak barrels that contain the resting 2014 vintage, and the second cellar, ready to welcome the new-born 2015 vintage. We stop amidst the silence that will soon lend its acoustics to the 2015 Palmer “symphony”.

It is not chance that I am speaking of music, and what music at that! Palmer’s exceptionality, as you might guess, is informed not only by its terroir. It reflects the unique essence of the people who create it. And here Palmer goes beyond the standard of most Grand Crus which have been welcoming classical music celebrities of world renown for years. A passionate jazz fan, Thomas Duroux invites jazz bands to “christen” the new vintage every year during the en primeur campaign in late March/early April.

After just a few moments, at the tasting room we rush right into the Listening to 2014 Palmer experience. We are tasting Château Palmer’s “Blue” and its Golden Alter Ego, quite literally (the label on the bottle, as Charles Palmer saw it, is designed in deep nocturnal blue and not in black!).

2014 Alter Ego is a vital composition of fruit, ripe and juicy, with a finale of fine spices. On the other hand, 2014 Château Palmer makes us simultaneously immerse ourselves into a delicate minerality and sweetness: a reflection of the Merlot and into the vertical structure of built by the Cabernet. This is a sublime moment: the nose and the palate catch Palmer in its overall natural beauty!

At parting, Annabelle Grellier presents me with the recording of the concert performed to mark the 200th anniversary of domain’s establishment as a souvenir. This is a biographical music narrative about the life of a wine that has been born and lived between the Earth and the Sky for 200 years now.

In this sense I have no choice but to wish the future 2015 wine Bon voyage!

***

The original text written in Bulgarian was published in 2015 by DiVino magazine, Bulgaria

La Princesse de l’Amphore

Et voilà, nous sommes le 15 novembre 2019 et ce matin, comme d’habitude, j’ai pris mon temps pour une petite promenade dans le vignoble. Un vent austère courait entre les vignes : refermées sous ses attaques glaciales, leurs feuilles craquaient dans un bruit sec et morose : « L’Hiver est arrivé…. La Saison est terminée, terminé-e-e-e-e-e- e … »

Il est l’heure, donc, à raconter une dernière histoire pour cette année. Et comme je me suis habituée aux finales merveilleuses et mémorables, je mettrais fin avec une histoire mi-réelle – mi-féerique.

Nous sommes dans le chai- spacieux et mystique- qui pendant tout ce temps a pu avaler et stocker des milliers d’histoires et de voix. Et voilà, un dernier morceau de ce gâteau, un savoureux :

C’était un soir au mois de juillet, juste avant la fermeture journalière, lorsqu’un couple s’est arrêté et a demandé une brève dégustation. Venu(e)s de la Suisse, la femme était Française, l’homme- Allemand. Une fille d’à peu près 4 ans au bidou mignon et arrondi et délicieusement bronzée me regardait avec attention ; ses yeux- ronds et noirs comme olives grecques me fixaient. Elisa Ecke, son nom, prononcé d’une do-o-o-o-uce voix.

Avant d’entamer la dégustation avec ses parents, j’ai mis dans ses mains nôtre panier plein de magnets au blason familial et je lui ai montré comment en les collant sur le comptoir métallique, on pourrait créer des figures imaginaires. Et ça marchait, comme d’habitude !

Moment de bonheur installé dans la Salle de réception- les parents visiblement émerveillés par les vins, Elisa Ecke- plongée dans son Univers magnétique !

À la fin, pour tripler leur plaisir, je leur ai ouvert les portes du cuvier. Mais avant, en traversant la cour, je leur ai brièvement raconté l’histoire du domaine et je leur ai montré le château- cette magnifique bâtisse style néo-gothique- donc fantastique !

C’est en ce moment qu’une question nous a sorti du Réel : « Und wo ist die Prinzessin ? » / « Où est la Princesse ? »

En riant, les parents m’ont expliqué qu’Elisa s’attendait à rencontrer la Princesse qui vit au château…

« Gibt es eine Prinzessin hier ? » / « Il y a-t-il une Princesse ici ? » – m’a demandé-t-elle.

« Mais bien-sûre qu’il y en a ! Une belle princesse coquine ! Viens, on va aller la chercher ! »

J’ai pris sa main et nous deux- toute petites- avons traversé le couloir du cuvier. Derrière nous les parents étaient en train de perdre leur conscience devant la beauté inox pourpre, violet, myrtilles, bordeaux…

Une fois dans le chai, nous nous sommes directement dirigés vers la Grande DOLIA- une de nos amphores.

« Aïe aïe aïe ! », moi- rentrée définitivement dans le jeu. « Je crois que nous sommes arrivé(e)s exactement à l’heure lorsque la Princesse prend son bain ! Tiens, j’entends comment elle bouge son pied ! Et comme elle est toute mouillée et nue en même temps, elle ne peut pas sortir nous saluer. Mais Attention – ta-da-da-dam ! Si tu poses ta main sur la Grande DOLIA et tu dis ton nom complet plus ton âge, elle retiendra ta voix et la prochaine fois lorsque tu reviens, tu les diras à nouveau, elle te reconnaitra et sortira pour te dire « Bonjour !»

Absolument convaincue que cette potion magique marchera, Elisa Ecke a mis sa main sur le corps argileux et a dit d’une haute voix : « Elisa Ecke, vier und halb Jahre alt. »

J’ai dit que c’est bien, que tout est bien enregistré. À la fin je l’ai demandé si la visite lui a plu.

« J’adore ! », s’est-elle exclamée pour une première fois en français. Étant inscrite dans une école germanophone, elle m’a parlée tout le temps en allemand. Mais dans la langue allemande le verbe ‘adorer’ n’existe pas ! On connait : ‘j’aime bien’, ‘j’aime beaucoup’ et autres mais pour exprimer une si forte émotion, elle a choisi le français.

Aujourd’hui c’est ma dernière visite à La Gaffelière, pour cette saison. Je mets ma main sur le corps de la Grande DOLIA et je dis à haute voix :

« Je m’appelle Yana Yanakieva, 42 ans, et je souhaiterais y revenir ! »

Merci beaucoup !

 WINE and THE CULTURE of HANDING DOWN

The B-SIDE TOUR

of  Château La Gaffelière, Premier Grand Cru Classé of Saint-Émilion

The family coat of arms with the motto « IN ARDIUS FORTIOR »

          In 2009, while I was studying Wine and Spirits in Bordeaux, I clearly realized my fate had handed me not only a wine glass to inhale bouquets and to sip bliss from but also a “cup of knowledge” which was filled only if I had the curiosity to the culture surrounding that drink. And since curiosity is the main driving force in my life it turned out that I literally have the “glass to Paradise”: I felt exactly like the character Julian Barnes’s “The Dream” who has all the time in the world to taste all wines created on Earth, from all vintages, to study all the terroirs of all domains all over the world, all existing grape varieties with the clones which often manifest themselves on those terroirs in quite different elixirs… As we know, wine lives a life of its own in the bottles and changes so when I tasted them again and again over the years I could only exclaim with surprise and astonishment! The Wine Paradise also offered a meeting with all the people involved in wine creation: from owners of the estates who preserve in their memory and in documents the knowledge of each individual vintage and also the vineyard agronomists and wine makers…

I was experiencing that in France, an Old World country where wine culture has been passed down for centuries at all levels: family, circle of friends, professional field, everywhere!

In 2005, when I settled down in Bordeaux, the summer scenes of night life intoxicated me in an impressionist manner: streetlights illuminated the terraces where the people had lively discussions over a glass of wine!… Wine is an absolute part of life, a shared one.

My Dream came true: over the 10 years that followed my cup of knowledge was filling incessantly: visits to domains, professional and amateur tastings… And in the evening, when I was sipping wine it got a particular taste. The power of handing down had triggered some special magic: more intoxicating than alcohol… the magic of knowledge!

Led by that special passion I chose that to be my professional mission: a wine guide. I am convinced that one always starts with what is small: both literally and figuratively, and that in every individual case one lovingly approaches both what is being handed down and what it is aimed at. And here is what I mean:

The role of handing down is undoubtedly huge, on all levels: from one generation to another in terms of ownership; from the knowledge about the domain itself in terms of the terroir: among the professionals who work in the vineyard and among those who create the wine: step by step. And thus, to us: the ones who regroup all knowledge and hand it down to the visitors.

In this sense the wine guide is an educator of a kind. In addition to having to be exceptionally competent, the guide must also adapt both to the levels of knowledge of those who are interested, and they vary quite often, and to the different profiles of visitors: depending on the experience and age but also on nationality, even gender… If the guide lacks that (s)he will not be called a « guide” but merely a “storyteller.” But all this would be pointless if the guide does not have an attitude towards the people (s)he meets! And also (s)he does not have some ways to intrigue them: to arouse their interest, to keep their attention, to make the meeting truly unique! For there is nothing stronger than positive emotions that deeply penetrate the memory. And in this particular case: they make us wish to come back to the domain and taste again the wine created in it.

And after all I have said so far it would be appropriate to provide an example of how I myself experienced my role as a guide, and an educator:

The B-SIDE TOUR

Of Château La Gaffelière, Premier Grand Cru Classé of Saint-Émilion

The Challenge:

Here is a serious beginning of a fantastic story whose only seriousness lurks in its being true.

From May 2018 to November 2019, I was responsible for the development of the wine tourism of an ancient family domain, Château La Gaffelière, Premier Grand Cru Classé of Saint-Émilion. A responsibility and a pleasure at the same time: in addition to the inspiring atmosphere, I found contacts with visitors quite an enriching experience – no boredom, not a single conversation or smile was ever repeated, ever!

This would be too idyllic but for the challenges of profession. And here are some observations: in this particular case they concern the “family months” of July and August. “They could and should be joyful, spontaneous and all smiles!,” I think. “After all a part of the visitors are kids!” But…

It is difficult for the kids to endure the “serious” pleasures such as a “Visit to wine domain”: they have to listen to some speeches and pretend they are interested, they have to behave “properly” and, if possible, kindly ask questions of the sort of “What is it like to be a wine guide?” and “How did you choose this profession?”

When I put myself in their place my soul is filled with deep compassion: during the hottest hours of the day their parents drag them up along the stairs to the vineyards, and then take them back… a great deal of groaning and pulling goes on… And here is what I would say to relieve us of the burden of the duty of being serious:

The guide is not the humdrum who has mugged up some big books of history and checks off one page after another in his head while telling them, choking up with a comma or the inverted commas that tighten his/her throat! And the guide’s energetic gesticulation and facial articulation betray the great deal of exercise (s)he’s done.

The guide is very eager to learn, one who loves reading stories. Maybe we certainly know that every story is a puzzle of many others that (S)He arranges into narratives during his lo-o-o-ong walks…

(S)He does not take herself/himself seriously! And why would (s)he do so: his/her work is entertaining! Even more so if (s)he works in a wine domain! In this case (s)he adds words such as “vineyards,” „soil” and, naturally, most often “wine”. “Wine this, wine that…” Let’s get back to the point!

The inspiration:

Everything started in one of those hot nights of July 2018 – The sun is still rolling idly this way and the voices coming out of the polyphonic swarm of the day’s visitors is slowly dissolving into its orange light. A family of Italians with a little girl named Bianca stops by for a tasting and in the end of it I open the doors of the vat room for them: it is, after all, a creation of the Italian imagination! One thing led to another, and here we are in the wine cellar! At that very instant a memory rushed back to me: 9 years earlier, in another wine cellar I was telling my daughter one of my favorite scenes from Gianni Rodari’s The Adventures of Cipollino: the one about Baron Orange in the cellar of the castle. She is 4 years old; because of the muted light her little white face has a shade of wax which slightly gives her an air of suffering. I know that she is bored and I tell her that story out of the novel to cheer her up. In the end her face is shining and I think “It’s just a story, after all!”.

In that warm evening the story about Baron Orange rolled over for the first time in the cellar of the domain, one of the most fantastic in the world, and the four-year old Bianca and her parents sealed their laughter with its huge body!

The idea of retelling the classic visit to the domain as one for children was born at that moment. Early the next morning, with my mind relaxed and with my eyes seeing every element of the road I’d walked anew, I wrote down what I see, feel and think while having fun candidly. The same way as with the classic visit that I’ve never wrote down on paper this one remained in the form of sketched out markers. And because I am sure that every adult connects with the child he IS from time to time, this gives you a new opportunity to retell my own version!

The B-SIDE TOUR :

The family coat of arms on the limestone wall:

Malet is one of the most ancient names in the history of France and it is the basis of that emblem! Bestowed with a knighthood during the battle of Hastings, Guillaume Malet, the founder of the family, was made an earl for his bravery in the military campaigns during the conquest of England.

Centuries later, his heirs are still battling on the field called Life but instead of crossing swords they are raising glasses with the emblematic mix of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, while saying out the family motto: In Ardius Fortior!

The whole rite is played in his face but what a surprising look he has on it: the 3 buckles on the knights’ belts, the main elements, have transformed into eyes and a mouth, the earl’s crown – into a punk bang, the Gothic figures of the griffons – into a slightly Bohemian hair, and his beard is colored by sips of wine with the words: Stronger in Adversity!

The name of La Gaffelière:

« The Gaffets » – wine lovers, 11th century

The name comes from the word “gaffe” which has several meanings in French: “attention,” “a goof,” “a boat hook”.

Imagine a vast space and a multitude of people walking with sticks with hooks and small bells. They clatter on the ground: knock-knock-knock; the bells ring anxiously: “Watch out! If you make even the smallest mistake of coming near us you are exposed to the danger of becoming one of ‘the Gaffets’”, the name given to the lepers who lived in this place. And hence La Gaffelière, the name of the place from time immemorial.

 The outcome of blending them together is the dark Medieval story!

It’s been years, they say, since anyone heard the moans of the lepers but it is a well-known fact that whenever wine is serviced to the earl somehow two sips automatically evaporate…

The Perfumed Staircase:

« The Perfumed Staircase »

 To celebrate the spring and hence the awakening of the vines the landscape painter of the domain plants violets every year. And this is not a mere flower! Touches of that especially fragrant plant species adorn the bouquet of the Château La Gaffelière wine in all vintages! The credit for that goes to the grapes of the Cabernet Franc variety, which is a whole garden for me! Irises, lily, roses, mint and fresh plants have left their traces into this elixir!

In the end of the blossoming season, in May, the landscape painter plants some other flowers. But in order to remind us of the presence of violets the wind, a real conspirator, scatters their tiny little seeds everywhere and they sprout, as an echo, in the cracks of the limestone stairs.

It is precisely that Perfumed Staircase that leads us to La Boulangerie – domain’s landmark plot, with its so significant name!

A violet sprouted in the cracks of the limestone stairs

A violet sprouted in the cracks of the limestone stairs

La Boulangerie and The Sculptor:

Philippe Pasqua’s silver vine

 At this very point we must clarify that because of the name of that plot which is fundamental for the domain a lot of visitors think that the bread is made of grapes! Well, not quite so, although there is an unwritten prohibition that accompanies the grapes’ ripening months: Interdiction de manger le Raisin: on finira sans Pain!

Philippe Pasqua is the author of this fantastic mini-vineyard planted in the heart of La Boulangerie! Some wonderful grape varieties have emerged: the leaves of the silvery vines lead is to two new ones: a blend of Merlot and Cabernet: Mer-nеt and Caber-lot. “When one is a Creator (s)he can afford to create silver grape varieties!” I sigh.

Vine leaf of ‘Mer-net’, the imaginary grape variety

Vine leaf of ‘Caber-lot’, the imaginary grape variety

The Vat Room:

Miraculous Equation room

             Something like the Advanced Mathematics of the Nose and Palate meets the Imagination, a meeting that only the Master cellar, Franck Darricau, can explain to you! He has at his disposal 20 vats containing 20 elixirs that he calls “juices” and every year he creates out of them some miraculous equation blends. I told him once that this is a Magician’s doing and he conspiratorially suggested that I try a: С= [Merlot (C6+C5+C8+C15) + Cabernet Franc (C12+C17)] =Wonderland!

Wonderland’s equation

The Wine cellar: the treasure!

The Wine cellar: the treasure!

         Gianni Rodari whom I adore ever since I was a child is a real virtuoso of the Story. He blends, in his own unique manner, sadness and joy, desolation and victory, tears and smiles!

In The Adventures of Cipollino he sends Baron Orange to the manor of his first cousin Baron Cherry and locks him in the cellar (what an admonition!). In his fear the Baron drinks up the contents of a small barrel of wine and exclaims in a state of ecstasy: “I am in Paradise!”

The Wine cellar: the treasure!

So, the story I told Bianca ended in the Paradise, and it became just one part of the experience called “Children at La Gaffelière”

Come in, please and let me tell it to you!

***

This is a dedication to Monsieur Léo de Malet-Roquefort with whom I have had the great chance to experience the most serious and fantastic at the same time conversations! To my daughter, who has been always so patient during our visits and curious to decompose the noses of the wines we taste. To the Australian Anne Moroney who I have met during the Great Wine Capitals’ week held in Bordeaux at the very beginning of November and who was the first to know this story and encouraged me to write it!

To all children who have visited the domain with me and the others who will listen it in the future!

LE  DIALOGUE

Je suis bordelaise, Je suis bordelaise !

 La Lamproie :

Je suis bordelaise jusqu’à la dernière dent, et sans l’ombre d’un doute! Je vis ici depuis toujours, le rythme de mon cœur est imprégné sur les murs calcaires des Chartrons, et La Gironde est ma meilleure amie ! Combien de fois j’ai peigné ses cheveux en me lançant sur son dos nu.

Et combien de fois j’ai plongé dans ses tresses blondes, nageant vers l’Atlantique, Gironde la Blonde !

Moi :

Je suis bordelaise. Je m’amuse de le prétendre devant certains touristes francophones auxquels je raconte Bordeaux et la région, et qui s’exclament souvent : « Mais d’où vient votre accent ? Il est tellement mélodique ! Peut-être êtes-vous Italienne ?» Je leur dis que j’ai vécu en Italie, aussi, mais que Je suis bordelaise. « Peut-être avez-vous épousé un Bordelais ?»  Je leur réponds que cela sera l’explication la plus prosaïque et qu’il existe une autre épreuve à laquelle chacun est soumis pour prétendre être ‘Bordelais’. Et maintenant, l’heure de vous raconter un de mes secrets est arrivée.

La Lamproie :

Je suis bordelaise. Mon nom complet est Petromyzontida. Je suis issue d’une très ancienne famille : mes ancêtres ont habité l’océan et les fleuves il y a 53 million d’années, pouvez-vous l’imaginer ! Et il est certain que par peur devant notre extrêmement sinistre gueule, aucune parmi les autres créatures similaires n’avait voulu croiser ses gènes avec les nôtres et voici comment notre sang est resté pur- 38 exactement de la famille au sang pur d’origine! Et oui : qui volontairement succombera au bisou d’un vampire d’eau- notre plus répandue réputation, lui donnera la partie la plus vitale de soi- le sang !

La Nature ! C’est elle qui a enraciné en nous cette impulsion de résistance qui nous force à nous procurer quotidiennement la dose de sang- notre seule nourriture. Et croyez-moi, lorsque tu te nourris de sang, tu as tout ! Il est simplement nécessaire d’être discret lorsqu’on se rapproche de sa victime, mais aussi habile lorsque l’on colle sa ventouse à son corps. L’anesthésiant que l’on lui injecte avec une dent pénètre rapidement : quelques secondes et…un, deux, trois- et elle est affaiblie et anémiée.

Pour ceux qui croient aux légendes, le sang est la nourriture des vampires, pour les autres- les plus terrestres- des Dieux et des Rois. Mais croyez-moi, ce n’est pas cela qui nous place parmi les aristocrates des poissons. Et même pas le fait que notre chaire extrêmement délicate a fondu sur les palais des Majestés tels que Henri I. Et une seule bouchée sacrée du corps d’un ancêtre l’avait amené Au-delà.

Alors, vous avez déjà compris que nous sommes des poissons mais en réalité nous ne rassemblons pas beaucoup aux autres : notre corps est dépourvu d’écailles, nous n’avons pas de mâchoires. Et si notre physique unique- sans arêtes, mais avec des vertèbres extrêmement douces et avec une ventouse, nous permet d’être si souple et de plonger dans les plus périlleux courants d’eau, même il ne pourrait pas nous prémunir contre les plus barbares parmi toutes créatures terrestres, les êtres « humains ». Car si nous buvons une quantité de sang pour nous nourrir, ils nous attrapent uniquement pour satisfaire leurs sens « sophistiqués ». Contre eux utilisons notre intelligence développée pendant des siècles. À cause de leurs pièges nous nous fondons avec les ombres glissant sur le fleuve pendant la journée, et vivons véritablement pendant la nuit profonde.

Mais ce n’est pas notre plus grande malédiction ! Saignant est notre drame : dans le moment dans lequel nous sommes déjà prêts à vivre l’amour et à nous unir avec un baiser-succion à notre élu-de-cœur, notre système digestif commence à s’atrophier, nous arrêtons de nous nourrir activement. Nos jours commencent à se fondre avec les graisses stockées dans nos corps. À peine nous réussissons à sentir la joie de nos premiers et seuls enfants ! Et nous les avons attendu pendant 12 années entières : rares sont les représentants du monde animal qui traversent un si long chemin afin de connaître l’amour et le bonheur de ce vécu !

Nous nous éteignons lentement et nous mourrons- des jeunes et tragiques vampires-aristocrates du monde des poissons.

Vous avez probablement deviné qui suis-je ?

Je suis bordelaise ! Je suis la lamproie !

Collier royal de dents, Temple de Nuit, 2020

TO  BE  IN  THE  COMPETITION

It happened back in 2015, after my return from China. I have spent a marvelous dynamic year there and when coming back to Bordeaux I felt as I was a true perpetuum mobile, recharged with energy and motivation. So, that in my daily life I had the impression not to walk but to fly!

Now, when I am talking about this period, I clearly remember how several times per day, flying back and forth to my home, my concentrated stare catched a poster stuck on the wall of the nearby located advertising agency. It was the poster of Open Chateau Piron. Words like «competition», «sport» «wine», «tasting», «professionals» and «amateur»,  key words for a person like me with real interest in wine and tastings, but also with a highly developped competitive spirit, made the event leave real impression on me. One day, driven by my curiosity, I finally took my time and read the content of the poster- I understood what Open Chateau Piron is like. Over the following years and namely during this period around February/March the advertisement of the event had grabed my attention and I felt, how to say, happy and relaxed, that Open Chateau Piron still exists! And I could participate on it one day, too.

In the beginning of February this year when Open Chateau Piron was being advertised again I decided that the time for me to join the competition has come- it was the moment to take the challenge! But there was another one and namely- I needed to find a partner, someone like me- with similar level of knowledge in wine & spirits, and who shares the same motivation and desire to win. So I appointed a «tasting» friend of mine and on the 27th of February I sent him a message with an invitation to join the competition.

Fate, however, can sometimes be really surprising! On the same evening I received an invitation from M.Xavier BOYREAU, organizer of Open Chateau Piron, to join the event as a member of the jury.

***

THE COMPETITION

The idea for Open Chateau Piron belongs to Xavier BOYREAU, co-owner of Chateau Piron, and conceptor. He transmits the positive and competitive spirit and directs the great orchestra Open Chateau Piron, together with his brother Lionel BOYREAU & whole family. After our first meeting I knew theoretically what the tournament is like, but it was during the event itself on 24th of March that I could feel and live its essence while attending it personally.

Open Chateau Piron is a blind wine tasting tournament modeled after the traditional sport competition and lasts for a day. There are two categories – «amateurs» in the morning and «professionals» in the afternoon– a total of 60 2-men teams. It is up to their members to decide which group to join- based on their experience and qualifications.

When asked why the event is competitive, here is the explanation – every team has a set amount of time to give answer to two questions:

1. From which French AOC the wine comes from- two minutes time to give an answer
2. Which is the vintage of the wine- thirty seconds to reply.

The voting system is entirely electronic!

The wines that each of the participants tastes are as follow: 2 white, 3 red and 1 sweet wine. 

Can you imagine the deep knowledge of French wines that the competitors must really have- as the number of French AOCs related to wine & spirits is ~ 420!

For those who want to test their skills without joining the main competition there is Open Chateau Piron OFF, where the same wines are served. Some participants shared that to do Open Chateau Piron OFF in previous editions helped them to train themselves.

https://www.openchateaupiron.fr/

***

JUNE, 24. OPEN CHATEAU PIRON 2018

Apart from the great tasting experience that Open Chateau Piron is, another very beautiful point is that that is the place where man can meet so many amazing people- wine lovers! Everyone his own terroir, history and experience!

The journey starts at 9:15 am when with Alexandre MORIN (http://levinlemportera.com/) we hit the road. The conversation. Man can rarely experience such fresh morning wine conversations ! It is Saturday, 9 am, coffee time 🙂 Let’s say it : I am travelling with the animator of Open ! First impressions for the future ambiance.

Arriving and meeting straight Diala YOUNES LAVENU ( https://www.oenologuesdebordeaux.com/) and already both of us we are junping into another conversation. It is with a participant, can say the most true one – since the beginning she participates in all editions of Open Chateau Piron. On my question, how does she train herself, she explained she is a member of a «feministic wine club», whatever this should mean! There is already some peps in the air. It is 10 in the morning 🙂

First exchange with Henry CLEMENS (https://vinvisibles.wordpress.com/)  who told me: « Tu vas voir, c’est génial! Tu vas t’amuser. C’est l’endroit où le vin est désacralisé» 🙂

It was time for the opening of Open Chateau Piron 2018. And time to meet up some of the participants, too.

In the « amateur » category :

In the category « professionals »

L’ÉCRIN du VIN, partner of the event, with founder Eric MICOULEAU ( https://lecrinduvin.fr/) and the tandem : Laurianne BRUN- Sommelière (https://laurianne-brun-sommeliere.fr/)  & Lucie DUSSILOLS- Chef Sommelière Exécutive – Groupe Nicola Lascombes (https://www.nicolaslascombes.fr/)

The first part is over and here the results:

CLASSEMENT  AMATEUR
>1:Team19–MARNIESSE/BORDAS
>2:Team28 –KEDGECROSET/DELBARRE
> 3:Team 13  – IPC BELLISI / TANG

LE CLASSEMENT GRANDES ECOLES

1: Team 28 – KEDGE CROSET / DELBARRE
2: Team 13 – IPC BELLISI / TANG
3: Team 32 – KEDGE BYRNE / SPURGEON

Delicious lunch break carefully prepared by Restaurant LE PHILOSOPHE in La Brède <3  With Alexandre, Diala and Henry: four of us wine & jury accomplices.

Then: spending time in the wine cellar of the property and discussing with Lionel BOYREAU, the wine grower of the family, about terroir, wines and vintages. Capturing the both « engines » of Open Chateau Piron- the brothers Lionel (on left) & Xavier (on right).

Always in the wine cellar- meeting Nathaël SUILS from SUILS/SUILS team- the winner of Open Chateau Piron 2017. Talking about wines & sports and namely the best ways to eliminate the extras when you are «un bon vivant» 🙂

Little relaxaxion with the music of L’ensemble JOGLAR before jumping into the second part.

I can only share how I personally lived the tournament.

The mission of the jury is the sweetest one! We have to appove the wines by tasting them bofore the service to competitors. We could also suggest food & wine pairings. Sitting right next to David DELIEUVIN (Président du Jury) from La Maison DARROZE and to Alexandre DE MONTESQUIEU, the most experienced among the members of the jury! Going deep into gastronomy! And on the finale are:

PODIUM FINAL :
> 1 : Team 19 – MARNIESSE / BORDAS
> 2 : Team 28 – KEDGE CROSET / DELBARRE
> 3 : Team PRO 57 – LE MENN / REDON

PRIX DU JURY (food & wine pairing)
> Team 27 – DUSSANS / COURSEAU

And Le Final! The both teams with such different profiles:  MARNIESSE / BORDAS– highly experienced enological tandem of wine taster belonging to Le Tire Bouchon Attitude Club (one of the best tasting clubs in France) & the very young and in fact already experienced team CROSET / DELBARRE, representing KEDGE Business School, Bordeaux. They became the winners in two other categories: RED & WHITE Scarf- the best tasting team on red & white wines!

I can only THANK to all of these amazing people who make possible Open Chateau Piron to be! The tournament by itself wheted my appetite of a wine taster and competitor. And the happy news came at the end: from now on the «classic» editions of Open Chateau Piron will be held every two years, so the next edition on which I could participate is in 2020 and I have whole two years to prepare myself and to find a team partner 🙂

The 2019 Open Chateau Piron edition is reserved only for the winners of the previous « vintages».

I can’t hide also that the wine of Château Piron inspired my tasting receptors! And I took my time to develop a Sunday family bruch concept. Here it is:

Crab leg meat & home mayonnaise paste & Steamed mackerel & cheese:

3. Fresh Spring salad:

4. Fish croquettes:

I really enjoyed tasting both Château Piron Blanc! Juicy, fresh & playful Sauvignon in the traditional cuvée. More roundness & complexity in the second. <3

In  this  competition  the  WINNER  is ME 🙂

http://chateau-piron.fr/